After puddle jumping on Koh Lanta it was time to go back to the coast we couldn’t get enough of. We already had a hotel booked at the Princess Resort on Railay East so we headed straight there after our two-hour ferry ride. Once inside our baby bungalow we dropped our bags, changed into our bathing suits and headed off to see the lagoon. After walking back and forth a few times on the path from Hat Rai Leh East to Hat Tham Phra Nang we spotted the trail, if you could call it that. The guide book describes it as, “a crude path that leads up the jungle-cloaked cliff wall,” and that’s exactly what it was except on this particular day it was extremely muddy because of the previous day’s rain. We spotted a mud-covered rope hanging down from the cliff side so we grabbed it and started to slowly make our way up. It was a long, slow journey because just one slip could cost you your life. I wish I were kidding, but it was scary at times. Even the rope wasn’t helping because the mud made it slick. We realized grabbing onto the tree roots was the safest and best option. After a long trek up, we made it to the top where there was a clear trail so of course we followed it, but no lagoon. Instead we reached ‘the viewpoint’ and I’m happy we did.
We looked out over Hat Rai Leh East & West and Hat Ton Sai, the beach we stayed at on Friday night. The landscape was breathtaking. As I was enjoying the natural beauty of the tall, straight palms amid the enormous, ragged limestone cliffs I began to worry a little bit. What if Ton Sai and Railay become the next Koh Phi Phi? I could see hotels dotted among the palms and foliage, but there was definitely more greenery than guesthouses. I hoped deep down in the deepest of all my hopes that this small piece of Thailand would stay as it is. I truly loved it here and I felt like it was a home away from home. I wouldn’t feel that way if I came back and it’s completely taken over by hostels, hotels and resorts. The vibe was different here, especially on Ton Sai where it’s all backpackers and climbers. There was more respect for the island and a shared love and enjoyment for space and place. Hopefully that sentiment will carry through the years and the next time I return for that multi-month climbing trip, Ton Sai will look the same as it did that day from the viewpoint. After we had our fill we turned around and walked back down the trail in search of the lagoon. The sun was setting so we knew we had to move fast. We took a couple steps to the left of the trail and then the right, but we didn’t see another path anywhere. Right before we were about to descend back down the treacherous cliffside, we saw a path leading off to the left. We also saw another muddy rope, which meant we were about to get dirty again.
Dave tested the waters by sliding down, half on his feet, half on his butt. Once he was down in the thick of things he gave me the ‘OK’ so I grabbed a handful of rope and tree root and slid down after him. Now we were really in the jungle. The vines and roots were tangled and twisted all about. Everything was damp, green and full of life. We crossed paths with the most enormous tree I’ve ever seen. The roots were taller than me, yes, the roots. I want to corral all the people who don’t have an appreciation for nature, and sit them at the base of that tree for a day. I could have stood there are starred at it for at least an hour, but like I said, it was getting dark so we moved on. We slid down more rocks until we came to a big mud pit and then a drop off, we peaked over the side and there it was, the lagoon. When you hear lagoon do you automatically place the word blue in front of it? Because I do. It was brown; probably because of the heavy rains and all the mud flowing off the mountainside. I took a glance at it, looked at Dave and then silently agreed to head back. I wasn’t even disappointed. I really believe half of the adventure is getting to your destination and in this case it was 90% and so be it. For me the adventure was complete once I laid eyes on that tree, I’m still not over it if you can’t tell. We sidestepped the mud pit and clambered back up the slick rocks with the help of strong vines, roots and carefully placed steps. The journey back down the cliffside was ten times scarier, but with Dave ahead of me I felt like I had a personal coach so it made it that much easier. He would basically take the hard way every time and then we would contemplate a different route, a much easier one, and that’s the way I would come down. It was more of a mind game than a physical one. If you picked the right root to grab and foothold than it was cake, well as cake as a slick, muddy, vertical trail can be.
Once we reached the bottom we did a celebratory high five and made our way to Hat Tham Phra Nang, the most beautiful beach on the peninsula. We washed off as best we could while we floated on our backs and stared up at the overhanging cliffs. Drops of water were constantly falling from the cliffs onto the beach and into the ocean, still at least 24 hours since it had rained. These little methodical drops made it possible for me to imagine how the flooding took place here in Thailand in August and October. When I arrived it hadn’t rained for an entire week, but after a few days in Bangkok we were evacuated because the flood waters were coming. I didn’t understand at the time, but now I do. All the water was still running from the high northern mountains to the lower inlands of the country. So even though I hadn’t experienced rain there were massive amounts of water that had nowhere to go because the ground was completely saturated. I still can’t wrap my head around all the water that rocked this country. After the sun went down we walked back to our bungalow and showered off all the jungle slime and mud that wouldn’t come clean in the sea.
We decided to eat dinner at our hotel’s restaurant because all the food smelled delicious as we walked by the first time. I also spotted pizza and I was dying for some western food. We took a seat in the heavy wooden chairs and simply gazed around grateful for where we were. All day we talked about how much we loved it here and how we shouldn’t have left on Saturday morning. Then Dave suggested half jokingly that we ditch our flight the next day. At first I thought it was crazy, but after a few minutes I started to give it some serious thought. He was only here for three more days and the both of us weren’t coming back to Ton Sai anytime soon, so if not now then when? We both pondered it silently as we look at our menus.
We had an absolute feast for dinner. The restaurant was out of a few things we ordered, but it ended up in our favor because the food we did get was the bomb. We devoured a thin crust cheesy pizza and a side of garlic bread before our meals arrived. For my main course, which came after the four slices of pizza, I had vegetable fried rice baked in a pineapple. It was like nothing I had ever seen before. It was really moist and full of flavor. After stuffing ourselves silly we started to discuss skipping our flight more seriously. We looked up the weather, train tickets and talked about me taking off work for two more days. Everyday that I miss I am docked $30 pay so I was already down $90 since Dave arrived. Even though I’d be losing some cash we both agreed that staying seemed like the responsible thing to do. I mean, why waste the days if we are already here. We paid for our flight a month ago so that money was already out of pocket and the train would only cost $30 total. After dinner we took a long, dark walk along the deserted Hat Tham Phra Nang beach. We laid a blanket down and starred up at the black sky, looming cliffs and twinkling stars. Yep, we’re staying.
